Sri Lanka in 35 places

5th-century rock citadel rising 200m from the jungle — water gardens, lion's paws and ancient frescoes.

Sigiriya's quieter neighbour with the best sunrise view of the Lion Rock itself.

Five caves carved into a granite outcrop, painted with 153 Buddha statues and 2,000 years of murals.

Sri Lanka's first capital — sprawling stupas, sacred bo trees and tank-fed ruins from the 4th century BC.

Compact medieval capital best explored by bicycle — royal palaces, reclining Buddhas, intact stupas.

Cradle of Sri Lankan Buddhism — the hill where King Devanampiya Tissa met Mahinda in 247 BC.

Kandy's lakeside temple housing Sri Lanka's most revered Buddhist relic — daily drumming ceremonies.

60 hectares of orchids, palm avenues and giant Java fig in a loop of the Mahaweli River near Kandy.

Mid-morning river bath of the herd is the moment — watch from the cafés along the bank.

Backpacker base in a tea-clad amphitheatre, with the country's best short hikes radiating from town.

45-minute climb from Ella to a tea-ridge summit — perfect for sunrise without the 2,243m commitment.

Colonial-era viaduct curving through the jungle near Ella — time your visit for the blue train crossing.

2,243m pilgrimage summit — climb through the night to watch the mountain's shadow appear at dawn.

High plateau where the land falls away 870m in a single cliff — go early before the cloud rolls in.

Cool 'Little England' tea town with mock-Tudor bungalows, racecourse and the best brew in the country.

UNESCO-listed cloud-forest range east of Kandy — multi-day trekking, leeches and total solitude.

Rainforest village on the Kelani River — Sri Lanka's white-water rafting capital and a birder's haunt.

25m roadside waterfall outside Ella, fed by the monsoon and tied to the Ramayana legend.

220m cascade with natural infinity pools at the top — Sri Lanka's second-tallest waterfall.

At 263m, the island's tallest waterfall — a single thin ribbon dropping through pine forest.

Dutch-built ramparts wrapping a living town of art galleries, lighthouse sunsets and ocean-view cafés.

Calm, palm-fringed crescent just east of Galle — gentle swimming, snorkelling and easy nightlife.

Sweeping surf bay and the country's main launch point for blue-whale watching (Nov–Apr).

Long, shallow bay famous for beginner surfing and the stilt fishermen of nearby Koggala.

Reef-protected beach with sea turtles in the shallows, plus a reliable point break for surfers.

Resort strip between river and ocean — water sports, mangrove safaris and Geoffrey Bawa's Lunuganga.

Highest leopard density on earth — also elephants, sloth bears, peacocks and ancient ruins.

Reservoir-fringed savannah with near-guaranteed elephant sightings and an excellent transit centre.

Largest national park — vast, quiet, dotted with natural lakes (villus) and shy leopards.

Stage for The Gathering — hundreds of elephants converge on the dry-season tank (Aug–Sep).

Coastal wetland RAMSAR site — flamingos, painted storks and 200+ other bird species.

World-class right-hand point break and the country's most laid-back surf town (season May–Oct).

Deep natural harbour, the cliff-top Koneswaram Kovil and warm, calm seas from May to September.

White-sand strip north of Trinco with snorkelling on a coral-fringed marine national park island.

Star-shaped Dutch fort on the Jaffna lagoon — the gateway to Sri Lanka's distinctive Tamil north.

Gold-trimmed Hindu temple in Jaffna and centre of the 25-day Nallur festival each August.

Half-kilometre seafront promenade where Colombo gathers at sunset for kites, kottu and the breeze.

Eclectic Colombo temple mixing Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian and Chinese Buddhist art — and a resident elephant.

Fishing town beside the airport — perfect first or last stop, with Dutch canals and a lively fish market.